Low ISO Mood: Concrete Yerevan on B+W

If you learn some of the numbers and times in Russian, you can try your luck purchasing tickets for the overnight train to Yerevan from the desk of Tbilisi’s Central train station. 

Departing in post-Soviet style from the Georgian capital in the early evening means one thing - economy class sleeper. After inching towards the border the train comes to a couple of abrupt stops where the Georgian, and then Armenian border guards come on board to check passports. By the time you’re across the border, there isn’t too much time for sleep. That’s a shame, as the train guard loudly wakes you up a whole hour before a very early morning arrival in the Armenian capital.

Too early to check in to your accommodation? No problem. Go and brush up on your Armenian with an early morning movie at a local cinema. Check in, quick coffee, and then grab your camera and start exploring the city from the Cascade complex, in the centre of town. 

Low ISO black and white shooting is the order of the day. There are some real architectural gems around the city, with a strong focus on concrete. Yerevan lacks the occasional tall modern hotels and office blocks that can be spotted in Tbilisi, but can boast a similar spirit and energy.  

Outside of town, Zvartnots, the main airport for the country, is a masterpiece of Soviet engineering. Opened in 1961 as a major transport hub within the USSR, the old terminal still stands today, in stark contrast to the comparatively modern second terminal, built in 2007.

The old terminal is the definition of Soviet space age brutalism - and is well worth a look. As a bonus, your taxi driver will take you past the iconic Ararat brandy factory en route. As always, you have to be careful photographing military and airport infrastructure in the region - but you can easily sneak a shot or two.