Thailand’s Last Quiet Corner?

Koh Yai Noi is the smaller of two main islands that make up Ko Yao district of Phang Nga bay in the south of Thailand. Tucked between Krabi and Phuket, the island feels far from the full moon parties, beach clubs and crowds of both destinations, which is strange due to the fact that it’s only a 30-minute boat ride from either.

The island is not like the majority of Thai beach destinations. It is peaceful, tranquil and extremely quiet. Instead of chaotic ports acting as a gateway for thousands of overcrowded and dehydrated tourists, our boat was the only one there. A couple of what we would describe as 4x4 jungle taxis picked everyone up and dropped us off at our respective hotels. Sleeping in a treehouse-style lodge in the middle of a rubber plantation with only the occasional hum of a passing solo traveller on a moped promoted a kind of relaxation that’s hard to define. 

The translation of Koh Yai Noi reads as “small, long island”, which gives you a decent idea of the geography. Interestingly, around 90% of the island’s 18,000 strong population are Muslims, with daily life revolving around a fledgling tourism industry, farming and community - resulting in a distinctly unique island culture.

The traditional husband and wife hotel team provided everything with a smile - breakfast, dinner when we were around, bicycle and moped hire, as well as some unrelated minor medical treatment. Cycling around the island is a good way to experience it. Expect flat surfaces, water buffalo and rice paddies, 7/11 drink stops, rubber plantations, fishing villages and hidden cafes.

Drinking is less prevalent on the island for obvious reasons, but the Sunset Bar was a good find, with people gradually piling in onto plastic deckchairs on the top of a cliff as the golden hour approached. Sunsets here are some of the best we’ve seen. The beaches down below are low-key - quiet stretches of sand with views of limestone cliffs and longtail boats.

Koh yao Bistro By Chef Aon, merely seconds from the accommodation, offered up seriously high-level Thai food in a serene jungle setting. Seafood cafes out on the end of jetties that connect small fishing settlements to the sea offer a well-deserved refuelling stop as you explore all the island has to offer.