Exploring Competing Architectural Legacies in Macedonia's Kitsch Capital

Frozen in time, the train station in Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia, acts as a memorial for the earthquake of 1963 and is at odds with the rest of the city, which has undertaken rapid change since that period. The capital underwent an existential transformation following the event which killed at least 1000 people and levelled much of the city, leaving thousands more homeless. In the aftermath of the tragedy, the United Nations invited Japanese architect Kenzō Tange, creator of the iconic Hiroshima Peace Museum and Tokyo bay redesign, to participate in a competition for the reconstruction of the city. 

Old station clock - frozen in time

A global leader in the radical metabolism (a form of post-war Japanese architecture that perceived the urban environment as responsive, replaceable and able to grow in an organic way) and modernism schools of thought, Tange was tasked with marrying up his vision of a more functional, innovative and utilitarian urban “city of the future” with Skopje’s eclectic pre-existing mix of rich Ottoman, Byzantine and Yugoslav remnants. The city's historic centre is adorned with mosques, hammams (bathhouses), and bazaars, and the iconic Stone Bridge, which dates back to the 15th century. These structures are characterised by their intricate ornamentation, domed roofs, and minarets, offering a glimpse into the capital’s past as a significant centre of the Ottoman Empire.

Skopje old town minaret (light leak)

One of the most pertinent reminders of the earthquake to be found in Skopje is the old station’s clock. In the building now used by the Музеј на град Скопје (or city museum), the clock on the facade was frozen in time as the disaster struck- at 5:17 on July 26th, 1963.

Unidentified building

In a world first of Japanese architects being given a blank canvas to implement such ideas on a large-scale reconstruction project, Tange and his team took advantage of a brief period of cold war unity, as Yugoslavia’s non-aligned geopolitical status allowed reconstruction aid to flood in from all across Europe. Ernest Weissman, a student of the immeasurably influential Atelier Le Corbusier, was in charge of the UN social affairs committee that oversaw the project.

GCT shopping mall

One of the most notable features of Tange's design was the creation of spacious boulevards and public squares, intended to foster a sense of openness and connectivity within the city. Additionally, Tange's influence can be seen in several iconic structures that emerged during the reconstruction period, such as the distinctive Macedonian Parliament building and the City Hall, both of which feature bold geometric shapes and clean lines characteristic of the modernist architecture of the time. Stark, otherworldly design separates Skopje’s design from the rest of the pack, making it a cult favourite for travelling photographers and architecture enthusiasts. 

A memorial in the centre of town 

Many of the more complex elements of Tange’s redesign were not fully realised. Chief among these was a city wall of apartment blocks to bridge the two parts of the city, a complex of towers and walkways from the 1980 railway station, uniting the city. Whilst some parts of the wall were finished, it never crossed the river. However, many of the buildings of the 1960s remain for all to see. Our highlights of Skopje architecture include:

• The Macedonian Academy of Arts and Science - designed by Boris Chipan of Macedonia.

• The brutalist masterpiece - the Central Post office - designed by Janko Kostadinov - a native Macedonian.

• The Polish-funded and designed Museum of Contemporary Art.

• The National Bank of Macedonia.

• The Macedonian Television Centre.

Post office

Moving into the 21st century, policymakers and city planners have sought to fundamentally alter the course of Skopje’s architectural legacy. The Skopje 2014 project, in particular, aimed to revitalise the city centre by erecting neoclassical buildings, monuments, and statues inspired by ancient Macedonian motifs. This initiative sparked debate and controversy, with critics questioning the authenticity and appropriateness of such grandiose constructions. Whilst the government said they had spent around EUR200mn on the project by April 2013, opponents suggest the cost could be much higher (up to ten times). Given the cash shortages faced by the government and the modest level of socio-economic development in the country, many view the project as money poorly spent. A local remarked that “it was all for” western tourists - which might have some truth to it. The process of “antiquitisation” has resulted in a ludicrous number of historic heroic statues and classical-appealing facades popping up over the city - particularly in the city centre and donning the bridges crossing the Vardar River. Corinthian columns, vast government buildings and ancient looking monuments to Alexander the Great make up the strange new look, and are caveated with 60s high-rises and office buildings in the background.

Two of many new statues and monuments found in the centre

Whilst allegedly building-in embedded earthquake resilience measures, Skopje 2014 forms part of the government’s nation-building agenda, where they seek to claim historical figures such as Philip II of Macedon and Alexander the Great. Clashes over the historical legacy of national heroes and stories, and the exact designation of “Macedonia” remains at the heart of North Macedonian disputes with Greece. 

Alexander the Great portrayed on Macedonia Square

Greece has accused North Macedonia of appropriating historical national figures and symbols that they consider part of Greek culture, including the use of the name Macedonia itself (as Greece argues that only the Northern Greek territories should use the name) and Alexander the Great. Macedonia’s naming dispute with Greece, which lasted over two decades, saw the country known as FYROM - Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, before an agreement was reached for “the Republic of North Macedonia” to become the official name. Geopolitical tensions with Greece have historically blocked North Macedonia’s accession plans for the EU and NATO. In many parts of North Macedonia, the official national flag is not flown, but rather the old one that represented all of Macedonia. This is because the current flag is seen as a Greek invention to force Macedonia to comply with their standards for EU and NATO accession.

St. Clement of Ohrid

Skopje’s story is a tale of two cities. Policymakers behind the Skopje 2014 project fundamentally oppose the modernist vision laid out by Kenzō Tange and his international team in the 1960s. Tange’s futurist approach of the 20th century is now being replaced with an ethos that, somewhat ironically, harks way back to the past. Nationalistic grandeur is the new order of the day, whether we like it or not. However, both the modernist and postmodernist interpretations of Skopje’s architectural path have one thing in common - they are bizarre. Both the product of geopolitical shifts, the mix of the two of them, in this changing space combine for a fascinating ride for anyone planning a visit. No one can accuse Skopje of lacking in architectural diversity.

National Bank of Macedonia

Skopje airport, or Alexander the Great airport, as it is unsurprisingly known as, offers a decent selection of direct and budget flights across Europe. During our travels to the region, we have combined Skopje jaunts with trips to the stunning lake Ohrid, found in the south of the country, on the Albanian border. Looking north, the fascinating ethnic Albanian city of Tetovo was also well-worth a trip. If you are lucky enough to make it out to Macedonia, we also highly recommend a visit to Prishtina, the capital of Kosovo, which will set you back a mere 1.5 hour drive (or cheap bus/taxi). The Balkans are inexpensive, easily accessible for the most part, and a lot of fun. Why not consider the region for your next trip?